Sitting on the terrace with perfect view of the old town, listening to the waves breaking at the beach, makes me forget about the sleepy town below.
I have been to Ulcinj for a very short stop two years ago on my way from Croatia to Albania. Even though it was in August, and both the beach and town was packed with people, something in me wanted to come back to explore.
This time I came outside the tourist season. And it shows. Most of the restaurants are either closed or empty, and there are almost no people around. Sitting on the terrace of one of the restaurants in the old town, overlooking the bay, all alone, gave the first hint. During high season, you would have to struggle to get that spot.
At first sight the old town seemed mainly to be restaurants, but walking passed them, you will get to the residential area. Most of the houses were either destroyed or damaged during the earthquake in 1971, but are nicely restored with stonewalls and cobbled streets.
By all means, I am really not a fan of overcrowded places, but at least some other people would be nice. But again; sitting on the terrace with perfect view of the old town, listening to the waves breaking at the beach, makes me forget about the sleepy town below.
Where to stay: Up on the hillside behind the city beach. There are several options for small private accommodations near the monument. Make sure you get one with view to the beach and the old town.